For years, Remiremont was a name I saw through a car window.
Driving the familiar route from Mulhouse to Nancy via the Col du Bussang, I would pass the sign, glance at the rooftops in the Moselle Valley below, and keep going.
There was always somewhere else to be, some schedule to stick to.
But one day, with the weather on my side and nothing urgent awaiting me at the end of the road, I turned the wheel.
I parked in the town centre, stepped out, and decided—finally—to explore Remiremont properly.
It was an excellent decision.
The first thing that struck me was the elegance: arcaded streets that felt almost Italian, harmonious classical façades in soft pink Vosges stone, and an atmosphere far more refined than you might expect from a mountain gateway town.
And then there was the abbey church—quiet, dignified, with centuries of history wrapped in its stones.
For travellers from the UK, the US, or anywhere beyond the Vosges, Remiremont is rarely on the list of must-see destinations.
Yet it should be. Hidden between valleys and mountains, it is one of the most graceful and intriguing small towns in eastern France.
This is the story of that discovery—and why Remiremont deserves a place on your travel map.
Where Is Remiremont? A Gateway Between Lowlands and Mountains
Remiremont sits at the southern edge of the Vosges mountains, where wide valleys begin to narrow, and the first folds of the massif rise gently from the plains.
It is perfectly placed: close enough to larger towns like Épinal for convenience, yet minutes away from forests, lakes, and high-altitude roads leading towards Gérardmer, La Bresse, and the mountain crests.
A Meeting Point of Landscapes
To the north, the valley opens toward Lorraine’s rolling countryside.
To the south and east, the hills gather height, ushering you into the Vosges’ most scenic areas.
Remiremont is often called the Gateway to the Vosges—a title it has earned.
Getting There Easily
Travelling is straightforward:
- From Paris: train to Épinal, then a short connection.
- From Nancy or Mulhouse: direct regional lines.
- From the UK: Eurostar to Paris, then train to Épinal and Remiremont.
But arriving by car has its own charm. The twisting ascent and descent through the Bussang region prepares the eye for mountains—and makes Remiremont appear like a polished jewel waiting at the foot of the slopes.
Remiremont: A Town Built by Women of Power
One of the most fascinating aspects of Remiremont is that its long history was shaped not by kings or bishops, but by a remarkable community of women: the canonesses of Remiremont.
The Origins: A Mountain Monastery
The story begins in the 7th century, when two monks—Saint Romaric and Saint Amé—founded a monastery on the heights above the valley.
Over time, this community relocated downhill to today’s town.
What emerged was no ordinary abbey.
The Canonesses of Remiremont
These women were aristocrats from Europe’s most prestigious families.
They were not cloistered nuns but powerful, well-educated noble ladies.
They lived in private mansions, held social gatherings, managed vast estates, and governed the town with a blend of refinement and authority.
They enjoyed privileges unique in Europe:
- They answered directly to the Holy Roman Emperor.
- They maintained their noble status.
- They could receive guests and travel freely.
If you walk Remiremont’s quiet side streets, you can still sense their presence in the elegant façades and refined urban layout.
A Town With Imperial Status
For centuries, Remiremont was an Imperial Abbey—a sovereign enclave with autonomy, wealth, and influence.
Its canonesses corresponded with emperors, welcomed princes, and shaped the cultural identity of the region.
Few visitors expect to find such a history in a small Vosges town. But that is part of Remiremont’s charm: it constantly exceeds expectations.
The Architectural Grace of Remiremont
My first real contact with Remiremont’s character came as I stepped under its famous arcades.
Suddenly, the town felt less like a mountain gateway and more like a refined provincial capital.
The Arcades: Remiremont’s Signature
These 18th-century arcades form the heart of the old centre.
Their symmetry, the soft colours of the stone, and the play of light and shadow create a dignified, almost Mediterranean atmosphere.
It is a delightful place to stroll, protected from sun or rain, surrounded by cafés, boutiques, and a gentle buzz of local life.
Few small towns in France possess such architectural unity.
The Palace of the Abbesses
A short walk from the arcades stands one of Remiremont’s grandest buildings: the former palace of the Abbesses.
With its classical façade and monumental scale, it reflects the prestige the canonesses once enjoyed.
The palace is not ostentatious; it is elegant, restrained, and quietly confident. Much like Remiremont itself.
Side Streets and Noble Mansions
Venture away from the main square, and you’ll find narrow lanes lined with former canonesses’ mansions.
Their windows, ironwork balconies, and carved stone doorways tell stories of aristocratic lives lived with sophistication—and perhaps a hint of intrigue.
Religious Heritage in the Heart of Remiremont
The Abbey Church of Saint-Pierre
The abbey church dominates the centre, combining Romanesque sobriety with later Gothic developments. Its presence is serene rather than imposing.
Inside, the quiet atmosphere encourages reflection. Light filters through tall windows. History sits thick in the air.
It is easy to imagine the canonesses attending ceremonies here, their influence reaching far beyond the church walls.
The Baroque Chapter Chapel
Not far away, the Baroque Chapel—once reserved for noble members of the chapter—adds another layer of artistry.
Its interior decoration, though often overlooked by casual visitors, holds the richness expected from a town shaped by aristocratic and imperial tastes.
Exploring Remiremont Today
Remiremont may be steeped in history, but it is also a living, welcoming town with plenty to enjoy.
The Arcades District
Shops and cafés line the arcades. It is the perfect place to start your exploration, grab a drink, or sit for a moment and observe daily life.
On market days, the atmosphere becomes lively and colourful.
Museums
The Musée Charles de Bruyères offers a varied collection: art, folklore, decorative objects, and glimpses of the region’s past.
It is well worth a visit to understand Remiremont’s cultural identity.
Gardens and Riverbanks
Walk along the Moselle River and enjoy peaceful paths shaded by trees.
In spring and summer, flowers brighten the town; in autumn, the valley glows with warm colours.
Markets and Local Specialities
Being in the Vosges means hearty, comforting food:
- smoked meats
- Munster cheese
- blueberry pies
- honey and mountain herbs
Local markets showcase the region’s simplicity and quality.
Traditions and Celebrations
The Fête des Demoiselles
Perhaps the most iconic event in Remiremont, this festival revives part of the canonesses’ heritage. Costumes, historical references, music, and processions fill the streets with colour and charm.
It is both a tribute and a reinvention—a glimpse into a past ruled by powerful noble women.
Other Events
Throughout the year, Remiremont hosts concerts, exhibitions, and seasonal festivities. The town may be small, but its cultural vitality is real.
Outdoor Escapes Around Remiremont
One of Remiremont’s great strengths is its immediate access to nature.
Towards the High Vosges
Within minutes, you can reach mountain lakes, forest trails, ski stations, and scenic roads winding through the massif.
Remiremont is an ideal base for exploring:
- Gérardmer and its lake
- La Bresse’s hiking and ski slopes
- valley routes leading toward Alsace
Cycling on the Greenway
The Voie Verte (Greenway) is a long, pleasant bike path running through the valley. It is perfect for families, casual cyclists, or travellers wanting a peaceful ride surrounded by scenery.
Nearby Towns
Beyond the mountains, towns like Saint-Dié-des-Vosges, Gérardmer, and La Bresse make excellent day trips.
Not far is the spa town of Plombières-les-Bains and its rich history.
Practical Tips for Visiting Remiremont
Getting There
Trains connect Remiremont with Épinal, Nancy, Mulhouse, and Paris (via Épinal). Roads are good, and parking in the centre is manageable.
Best Times to Visit
- Spring: gardens bloom, riverbanks are vibrant.
- Summer: ideal for outdoor activities and cycling.
- Autumn: mountains covered in gold and red.
- Winter: a calm town with ski areas just up the valleys.
Where to Stay
Expect small hotels, friendly guesthouses, and mountain lodges nearby. Remiremont is a comfortable base for exploring the region.
Click here to browse a map of accommodations located in Remiremont and surroundings.
Who Will Enjoy Remiremont?
- travellers who enjoy elegance in small doses
- history lovers
- walkers and cyclists
- families
- anyone seeking a quiet, authentic French town with unexpected depth
A Personal Reflection — The Day Remiremont Finally Became More Than a Road Sign
When I finally stopped in Remiremont after so many years of simply driving past, I expected a pleasant pause—a coffee, a walk, perhaps a quick look around.
Instead, I found a town with a soul: refined arcades casting patterned shadows, an abbey church whispering stories of noble women, streets lined with graceful architecture, and a gentle atmosphere that makes you slow down without thinking about it.
Remiremont rewards curiosity. It rewards those who stop, linger, and look closely.
Sometimes the best travel discoveries are not the famous landmarks but the quiet towns we finally decide to explore. Remiremont was one of those for me—and it may well be one for you too.