Nancy-Metz. Two towns in Lorraine that seem to have nothing in common. Two cities that, in the past, have each led their own destiny.
One dates back to ancient times, and the other was founded more recently.
When one claimed to belong to an independent duchy, the other was already breathing in the scent of the King of France’s fleurs-de-lys.
One is famous for its 18th-century royal squares, while the other boasts a majestic Gothic cathedral.
Following the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71, one became German, the other remained French
And yet, the two cities are just an hour and a half by TGV from Paris. And they share the same airport. The two towns are linked by a motorway and a high-frequency train service (the Métrolor) and are proud to be part of the Sillon Lorrain.
In both towns, you can enjoy the same quiches lorraines, pâtés lorrains and mirabelle plums.
As you can see, Nancy and Metz are so different yet close. On the menu for this article is the fascinating history of the Nancy-Metz rivalry, followed by a visit to their most beautiful sites. Let’s go!
Nancy-Metz: fond childhood memories
My paternal grandmother lived in Metz. My maternal grandmother lived in Nancy.
So, I was lucky to live close to these two cities throughout my childhood.
I have fond memories of that period in the 80s.
Metz Forever!
In Metz, I remember my grandmother getting us ready before catching the bus to the city centre.
After crossing the Moselle, the bus dropped us off near the Place de Chambre. It was a magical place: the majestic view of Saint-Etienne’s cathedral was awe-inspiring.
Then, we strolled through the shopping streets of Metz or along the Moselle.
Taking the train at Metz station was another highlight. I was already overwhelmed by this vast building.
Nancy, the Smart One!
In Nancy, the atmosphere was completely different.
My grandmother usually took me on foot from her flat in the north-west of the city to Place Stanislas, along the railway platforms.
Watching the trains pass over the François Jacob footbridge was a real highlight for the little boy that I was. Strangely enough, I loved getting lost in the aisles of the Saint-Séb shopping centre (aka Saint-Sébastien).
As for the Place Stanislas, I was captivated by the work of Jean Lamour: the magnificence of the wrought-iron gates enhanced with gold.
Yes, even as a child, I had already taken my bearings in these towns, especially as I developed a curiosity. And that curiosity carried me through to adulthood!
A necessary re-discovery
But it wasn’t until much later that I rediscovered Nancy and Metz – and for that, I’d like to thank the tourist boards of the two cities, which, thanks to their invitation, enabled me to ‘fill in the gaps’!
Both my grandmothers seemed to have deliberately left out certain districts. I’d never set foot in some of the picturesque streets of Metz, never really visited the famous Porte des Allemands or admired the façade of the Palais du Gouverneur.
In Nancy, we never went near the cathedral, and even some of the streets of the Ville-Vieille were unknown to me.
But there’s a good reason for that. If you go back to the early 1980s, many of the streets and districts of Metz and Nancy had not yet been rehabilitated and were of minimal interest to visitors.
Towns that have become more attractive
In fact, over the last few decades, Metz and Nancy have improved for the better. Thanks to some remarkable renovation (and clean-up!) projects, they’re giving tourists a fresh look at their rich past.
Off you go! I didn’t need Photoshop to erase the cars on Place Saint-Louis in Metz! Below, in the early 1980s and 2018.
Nice difference, isn’t it?!!! 😜
Then there’s Place Stanislas, which was made pedestrian-friendly in 2005. Below is early 2000, compared to 2016.
Admittedly, this square was already sublime… but if I tell you that between 1958 and 1983, its central median was home to a 600-space car park, that’s another story!
Nancy-Metz: more than a rivalry
One grandmother in Metz, another in Nancy. So which did I prefer?
This touches on a sensitive point that transcends my personal experience.
The rivalry between Nancy and Metz (or Metz and Nancy!) is legendary.
It is so legendary that it has given rise to parochial quarrels. Because, you see, it’s a thorny issue.
Mirror, mirror, who is the capital of Lorraine?
This is precisely the question you must not ask during your stay in Lorraine.
It’s a question that has a knack of reigniting passions between pro-Nancéiens and pro-Messins… quite simply because many people are unaware of the past of the two cities and their respective places in historic Lorraine.
But one had to be chosen in 1974 when regionalisation took place… and that only exacerbated the controversy… so Metz was chosen, much to Nancy’s displeasure.
Rivalries between provincial towns are nothing new. Rouen-Caen, Tours-Orléans, Annecy-Chambéry, Nantes-Rennes. But the historic rivalry between Nancy and Metz has proved to be even more passionate. And its history is unique in France.
These two sisters have quarrelled over issues of regional supremacy. Political, economic, sporting, educational and cultural. For a motorway, an airport, a high-speed train or the title of capital city…
Why such competition?
You have to go back a long way to understand the historic rivalry between Metz and Nancy. To the time of their foundation.
This is where we will talk about History (with a capital H), but don’t worry, we’re going to keep things simple so that you can understand as much as possible! It would be a shame to get lost in the corridors of time! ☺️
Ancient Metz
While the site of Nancy languished in uninhabited marshland 55 km to the north, there was a vibrant, bustling city: Divodurum Mediomatricorum.
It was the capital of the Gallic nation of the Mediomatricorum. When the Romans occupied the area in 58 BC, they transformed it into an administrative and military city.
Well, whether the Gauls knew rum in their time is another story, but never mind!
Metz, capital of Austrasia
Then, for more than two centuries, from 511 to 751, Metz was the capital of the kingdom of Austrasia.
This kingdom of the Merovingian era covered a vast territory from the Strait of Dover to the German town of Fulda and from the north of the Netherlands to the Ballon d’Alsace in the Vosges.
Austrasia (Oster-rike) means the eastern kingdom. It’s like Austria (Oster-rike, then Osterreich). For the record, when it came to finding a name for the new Alsace-Champagne-Ardenne-Lorraine region in 2016, the name “New Austrasia” was proposed. But of course, nobody knew what it was! So, the drafts were quickly thrown in the bin. Gone were the names ‘New Austrasia’, ‘Rhine-Champagne’ and ‘Acalie’. Instead, we opted for the more straightforward ‘Grand Est’.
OK, like most of the population, I imagine you’ve never heard of Austrasia. But I’m sure you’re familiar with one of the kings who ruled this territory.
An Austrasian king who was so absent-minded that he wore his breeches inside out!
As you may have guessed, that monarch was… Dagobert the 1st! (well, as for the knickers, you should know that the song dates back to the French Revolution… people liked to make fun of kings in those days).
Let’s continue our story… A little later, in Metz, the Carolingian dynasty was born with Pepin the Short in 751.
The division of Charlemagne’s empire
Even under Charlemagne, Metz was no longer the capital, but it still enjoyed the special attention of the emperor.
Under the Treaty of Verdun in 843, Charlemagne’s grandsons shared his vast empire.
As a result, Lothaire I obtained Median Francia. This territory stretched from the North Sea to Provence and northern Italy, sandwiched between Francia (to the west) and Germania (to the east). Yes, over the next 1,000 years, this unfortunate division paved the way for numerous conflicts between France and the Germanic countries.
But this vast territory did not last long. In 855, at the Treaty of Prüm, Lothaire I divided it between his three sons:
- Italy for Louis II the Younger
- Provence and Burgundy to Charles of Provence
- the Benelux, Saarland, Rhineland-Palatinate, Alsace and Lorraine to Lothaire II.
The latter territory took the name of Lotharingia, and Metz was chosen as its capital.
In the decades that followed, Greater Lotharingia crumbled… In 959, what remained of Upper Lotharingia became the Duchy of Lorraine.
Metz and its territory did not form part of this, as they became an independent entity – an episcopal principality integrated (like the Duchy of Lorraine) into the Holy Roman Empire. And it’s this little detail that’s going to complicate everything.
But what was going on in the marshes 55 km to the south?
Around this time, Nanceiacum emerged from the mosquito-infested marshes of the Meurthe River. The Duke of Lorraine, Gérard d’Alsace, built a feudal castle here, around which a village and then a small town grew.
In the 14th century, it became the capital of the Duchy of Lorraine. And here comes the advent of Nancy!
The circumstances surrounding its birth are described in my article on the marshes of Nancy.
Metz, the advantages of a Free City during the Middle Ages
During the Middle Ages, Metz was an opulent episcopal city and later an oligarchic republic.
As early as the 12th century, it became a free city and the capital of a small republic. By the 14th century, Metz had a population of almost 30,000. It was by far the largest city in Lorraine. This, of course, attracted the covetousness of the Dukes of Lorraine, who never hesitated to lay siege to it… without success!
In 1491, the people of Metz were furious to learn that Duke René II had stained glass windows with the Cross of Lorraine installed in Metz Cathedral… to mark his hold over the diocese!
1552 was an essential date for understanding the contemporary rivalry between Metz and Nancy.
That year, King Henry II of France seized the three bishoprics of Lorraine: Toul, Verdun and Metz. The Treaties of Westphalia ratified a de facto annexation for good a century later (October 1648). Metz became a stronghold of the Kingdom of France against the Holy Roman Empire, of which the Duchy of Lorraine was still a part. And also an enclave within it!
What about Nancy?
Nancy developed considerably in the 16th century, with the founding of the Ville-Neuve by Duke Charles III. As a result, it consolidated its role as the capital of a duchy that remained independent within the Holy Roman Empire (even though the French often invaded and occupied it!).
The last Duke of Lorraine, the dethroned King of Poland Stanislas Leszczyński, embellished Nancy. It was planned that, on his death, the Duchy of Lorraine would revert to the French crown.
This became a reality in 1766. From then on, and for the first time, Nancy and Metz found themselves in the same country, pursuing their destinies separately.
For almost a century, Metz had slightly more inhabitants than Nancy
- 1800 – Metz: 32,000 inhabitants, Nancy: 28,000 inhabitants.
- 1861 – Metz: 56,800 inhabitants, Nancy: 49,300 inhabitants.
Until 1870, Metz was a military town nicknamed “the fortress of the East” or “the strongest citadel in France”.
The upheaval of 1871 and the rise of Nancy
Nevertheless, the Franco-Prussian War of 1870-71 profoundly changed the situation in Lorraine. And contributed to exacerbating the rivalry between the two cities. Following the French defeat, the Treaty of Frankfurt confirmed the attachment of Alsace and the Moselle département to Germany.
It was then that Nancy experienced an exceptional demographic boom with the arrival of the Optants. These were Alsatians and Moselle residents who refused German nationality, preferring to leave their region and settle in Nancy (or Belfort or Paris). This was the choice made by many industrialists and intellectuals. Many became leaders of the Ecole de Nancy, making the former ducal city one of the cradles of Art Nouveau in Europe.
As a result, the city’s population rose from 50,000 in 1870 to 120,000 in 1914!
Metz under German annexation
Metz was not forgotten under the Annexation. The German authorities wanted to make the city a showcase for the Kaiser’s empire. An entire district sprang up around the railway station.
However, the settlement of German emigrants does not seem to have compensated for the loss of the Optants. The city experienced only moderate demographic growth compared with Nancy.
The town’s population rose from 51,300 in 1871 to 68,600 in 1910. It was not until 1962 that it reached the symbolic milestone of 100,000 inhabitants, thanks in particular to the incorporation of neighbouring municipalities.
Metz’s return to France
In 1918, Metz became French again. But this was no mean feat for the city. Metz’s economy was severely affected by the mass expulsion of German citizens in 1918 and 1919. But Metz’s military role was affirmed with the installation of the headquarters of the headquarters of the Eastern Region.
The city was annexed by Hitler’s Germany in June 1940 before being liberated by American troops on 22 November 1944.
The post-war period: the Nancy-Metz rivalry at its height
At the end of the Second World War, Metz and Nancy found themselves in the same country again. With the economic growth of the Trente Glorieuses, their respective populations became more equal. The battle for another stake in political prestige began… who would be the capital of the new administrative region of Lorraine?
In 1964, the regional prefecture was established in Metz. 10 years later, the first session of the Lorraine Regional Council was held in Metz.
In the 1970s, the controversial route of the eastern motorway (A4) benefited Metz and the steel and coal mining areas in the north of the region, to the detriment of Nancy.
Let’s split the difference!
Three decades later, we didn’t dare choose one city over another with the TGV-Est route or the construction of Lorraine airport. We simply opted for the status quo: halfway between Metz and Nancy – and too bad if it’s in the middle of fields!
You see, after this long historical interlude, we must admit that it’s not so easy to ask the magic mirror: Who, Nancy or Metz, is the rightful capital of Lorraine?
To be perfectly frank with you, I would say that the definition of Lorraine for each of these cities differs. Because of its complex history, no single Lorraine for which Metz or Nancy could claim to be the capital.
So, what is Lorraine?
Are we talking about Upper Lotharingia? The Duchy of Lorraine?
And we haven’t even mentioned the Duchy of Bar… the other two bishoprics of Toul and Verdun, and their possessions… (so as not to complicate the explanations any further? )
So, it’s best to take a step back. Then, highlight all the things the two cities have achieved together, 55 km apart. A good example is the merger of the universities of Nancy and Metz in 2012 to form the Université de Lorraine. The university ranks third in France with 60,000 students.
The creation of the new Grand Est region in 2016 may have been beneficial in one respect: with the disappearance of the administrative region of Lorraine in 1964, there is no longer any need for a single regional capital. Lorraine can now boast two!
As Archduke Otto of Habsburg-Lorraine (eldest son of the last emperor of Austria-Hungary) once said: “Lorraine is big enough to support two capitals”!
And why not?
Will the end of the Grand Est revive the rivalry?
But then, lo and behold, in 2024, the media announced the (possible) imminent end of the Grand Est as it stood.
By the end of the year, Alsace could be out of the Grand Est and back on its own as a region in its own right.
This ambition is being ardently pursued by the President of the CeA (Collectivité européenne d’Alsace), who sees the forthcoming law on decentralisation, eagerly awaited this year, as a golden opportunity to realise this dream.
But he is not alone in dreaming of Alsace taking flight. In a consultation by the CeA in 2022, no less than 92% of Alsatians voted in favour of this change.
The question on everyone’s lips: which city would become the capital of what would remain of the Grand Est (aka Champagne-Lorraine)?
Despite its prestige, Reims seems to be out of the running, having been relegated by the Revolution to the simple role of sub-prefecture of the Marne.
Châlons-en-Champagne, despite being the capital of the former Champagne-Ardenne region, lacks the clout to claim the crown.
And then, frankly, these two are a little too much in the shadow of Paris, aren’t they?
So let’s stay in Lorraine, where the choice looks set to be… tough!
Not one, but two cities stand out, fuelling a long-standing rivalry.
Which will come out on top?
Is the old feud about to be revived?
Stay in Lorraine!
If you plan to stay in the Nancy-Metz region, I invite you to look at my article “Where to stay in Lorraine?“
There, you’ll find a selection of excellent accommodations in Nancy-Metz that I’ve frequented during my visits.
Nancy-Metz: What to See?
For the first time, I will pool the sites in Metz and Nancy by classifying them according to tourist categories.
Ready for a bit of sightseeing? Here we go…
Squares
Nancy’s not-to-be-missed Place Stanislas is well worth a visit.
Nancy’s two other squares are also listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites: Place de la Carrière and Place d’Alliance.
In Metz, the 18th century bequeathed the Place d’Armes and its neo-classical buildings, including the town hall.
But the Moselle city is also famous for its Place Saint-Louis, of medieval origin…
The Place de la Comédie, which faces the opera theatre, one of the oldest in France, is still in operation.
Castles and palaces
Metz has preserved the powerful Porte des Allemands from medieval times. Its massive castle-like silhouette spans the Seille.
In Nancy, the Porte de la Craffe marked the entrance to the Old Town from Metz.
The Palace of the Dukes of Lorraine in Nancy has lost some splendour over the centuries. But some fine features remain, such as the magnificently sculpted doorway.
Nearby, the Palais du Gouvernement was built in the 18th century at the northern end of the Place de la Carrière to house the Chancellor of Lorraine, representative of the King of France. The building was designed to face the Hôtel de Ville, which housed the flats of Stanislas, the last Duke of Lorraine.
Back to Metz with the Palais du Gouverneur, a monumental Rhenish neo-Renaissance building built between 1902 and 1905 during the German annexation.
Historic old streets
Both Lorraine towns are unique in that they have rehabilitated their old historic centres.
In Metz, it’s great to lose yourself in the maze of ancient streets: rue Taison, En Jurue, rue d’Enfer…
In Nancy, the old town is more compact, stretching along the Grande-Rue from the Porte de la Craffe to the Place de Vaudémont.
Cathedrals and churches
Lorraine’s most beautiful and largest sanctuary is undoubtedly the Cathedral of Saint-Etienne in Metz. Nicknamed the “Lanterne du Bon Dieu” for the sumptuousness of its stained glass windows, its impressive dimensions make it one of the largest Gothic cathedrals in France.
Metz is also home to Saint-Pierre-aux-Nonnains, which is believed to be the oldest church in France.
Its Temple-Neuf, built during the German annexation and inspired by the cathedral of Speyer, offers a postcard image (from the Moyen-Pont).
In Nancy, the Cordeliers church is the Necropolis for the Dukes of Lorraine.
The Dukes’ capital also has its own cathedral but in a neo-classical style.
In the old town, the neo-Gothic church of Saint-Epvre is the tallest religious building in the city, with its spire rising to 87m.
Urban development 1871-1914
In both Nancy and Metz, 1871-1914 saw tremendous urban development.
In Metz, this took shape when the German authorities decided to build a brand new district around the railway station. The German Imperial Quarter was a major urban development project that began in 1902.
With the influx of many artists and craftsmen, Nancy was a breeding ground for the emergence of an artistic movement based on the aesthetics of curved lines: Art Nouveau. As a result, the city has been enriched by several buildings constructed by the architects and craftsmen of the Ecole de Nancy.
Parks and gardens
Visitors will appreciate Metz for its large green spaces. Nicknamed the “Green City”, the Moselle town offers beautiful green spaces along the Moselle and Seille rivers.
As for Nancy, green spaces can be summed up in two large urban parks: the Pépinière and the Parc Sainte-Marie.
Museums
Nancy has several museums, mainly the Musée Historique Lorrain (now closed for renovation), the Musée des Beaux-Arts and the Musée de l’Ecole de Nancy.
Since 2010, Metz has been home to the Centre Pompidou, the first decentralised branch of the venerable Parisian institution. And we mustn’t forget to mention the Cour d’Or museum, with its collections of Gallo-Roman and medieval art, medieval and Renaissance architecture, and fine art.
Gourmet delights
In the two Lorraine towns, you’ll find all the best examples of regional gastronomy, including :
- Pâté Lorrain,
- Tourte Lorraine
- Potée Lorraine
- Quiche Lorraine,
- Mirabelle plums from Nancy and Metz (yes, they are different sizes!)
- Nancy macaroons,
- Bergamottes sweets,
- Paris-Metz cake…
And many other delicacies that I’ll leave you to discover here!
Christmas in Nancy-Metz
During Advent, Lorraine celebrates its patron saint, Saint Nicolas. In Nancy, as in Metz, this is a time of grand celebration.
In Nancy, the Fêtes de Saint-Nicolas are celebrated over a weekend and 6 weeks, with a giant Christmas tree on Place Stanislas, Saint-Nicolas markets on Place Charles III and Place de Vaudémont, and a Ferris wheel on Place de la Carrière. Find out more here!
In Metz, it’s, above all, the Christmas market that attracts the crowds. It has become a not-to-be-missed event in Lorraine and ranks alongside Strasbourg, Reims and Colmar as one of France’s top 5 busiest Christmas markets. The historic centre of Metz is home to several Christmas villages, a 60-metre-high Ferris wheel on the Place d’Armes and an enchanting lantern trail. Find out more here!
Nancy-Metz: Learn More
- Read this article on Nancy-Metz in French on our blog Mon Grand-Est!
- Tourist Board website of Metz
- Tourist Board website of Nancy
- Lorraine Tourisme website
- Where to stay in Lorraine? Check out my dedicated article with a list of hotels I’ve tested in the region.
Pin on Pinterest
Pin an image to discover Nancy-Metz on Pinterest: